The absence of both an obvious sign and air conditioning hasn’t deterred hungry locals from flocking here from 7am till late over the past four decades. With generous chunks of deep-fried Spanish mackerel in a stock made with halibut, bonito and fried garlic, the eponymous thick soup makes a great meal by itself or a snack between meals. If you’re lucky, you may even get to try the deep-fried mackerel skin that offers great seafood umami.