Set against a textured wall, the hinoki counter stretches the full length of the room. The chef has been making sushi for over 20 years and he fashions a menu that features Hokkaido fish and small plates to go with alcoholic drinks in equal measure. Traditional techniques are used to highlight natural flavours and textures. Try his slow-cooked ankimo – a pinkish, melt-in-the-mouth morsel loaded with savoury umami. Check out the well-curated sake menu, too.