As well as familiar Cantonese classics, Gogo prides itself on revisiting painstakingly made ancient dishes that are hard to come by (and need to be pre-ordered). The deep-fried custard with Matsuba crab roe is at once crispy, creamy and laden with umami. Sautéed sliced baby geoduck with partridge and squab meat embodies exceptional wok hei and exquisite knife work. Parties of four or more can order the omakase-style "ancient feast" menu.