You might not expect to be served ice cream in the middle of savory courses, but at Chef Dave Beran's Seline, surprises are the hallmark of a deeply personal meal. His ambitious tasting menu dances between sweet and savory and delivers on drama, with three distinct themes. A recent meal began with raw scallop with green apple and daikon in a poblano broth before a bowl set with smoked pork gelee topped with Dungeness crab and pine nut. Five-day aged black cod infused with wild bay laurel over braised sunchoke is simple yet sophisticated. Finally, the short rib's deeply savory mushroom ragu is even better with a house-made brioche fried in beef fat. The chef's signature golden Osetra caviar served atop hazelnuts and a coffee anglaise is the ultimate ending.