Nestled next door to Atelier Crenn, this counter experience offers an elegant interpretation of bar dining. Seated at a sleek marble countertop, a select handful of diners per evening receive a custom menu that carries the team's commitment to pescatarian-focused, dairy-free cuisine. Diners get a bit a show, as many of the courses are plated right at the bar. The beverage program is well-thought out, and selections pair perfectly with the clever creations, such as a salt-brined beet tartare crowned with caviar that's matched by a Mendocino sparkling rosé. The procession sings to the seasons, as in a springtime meal that included seafood sausage-stuffed morel mushrooms, clay-baked white asparagus, and halibut dressed with ramp "beurre blanc."