At once playful and profoundly earnest, this privileged playpen is adored by the Bay Area's elite. The studied cool of the kitchen extends to its crowd, and the striking warehouse setting blends rusticity with refinement. Everything revolves around the roaring hearth. The kitchen, under the direction of Chef Richard Lee, is in steady hands and proffers an immersive experience. The number eight (considered lucky in Chinese culture) appears throughout, with eight herbs in the opening tea, eight courses, even the number eight in the address. Meals may open with a generous quenelle of caviar set atop a lush salsify cream dressed with sturgeon bone broth. Then, local rabbit saddle dressed with perfect morels and grilled gem lettuce; or Texas antelope ribeye sauced with blueberries and accompanied by a black truffle croissant lead to unique sweets. Treats like milk chocolate shaved ice bring the meal to a memorable finish.