With a mission statement aiming to celebrate the bounty of the natural world, guests here will likely find the experience more comfortably familiar than the striking, cavernous space and dramatic name might imply. Diners are seated at a counter surrounding a central hearth, where they can watch as vegetables, seafood, and meats alike are carefully tended over coals, a testament to the ingredient-forward cooking on display. Dishes demonstrate this Californian sensibility along with Japanese influences, as in a yellowtail crudo with spruce and ponzu, or noodles with chayote squash, black garlic, and uni-lobster broth. An impressive collection of Japanese whiskeys offers plenty of room for connoisseurs to indulge.