Chef Alain Llorca has dropped anchor in an inn at the entrance to this picture postcard village, which also found favour with iconic figures ranging from Matisse, Braque and Chagall to novelist James Baldwin and the legendary Montand-Signoret duo. In a 17C former oil mill whose millstone and press are still visible, the kitchen sings an ode to bistro fare (veal blanquette and pilaf rice, beef tartare and fresh fries, black pudding with apples) and specialties from Nice like roast squid and risotto of Nice courgettes.