Argentinean-born chef, Matias Alesandrelli, earned his stripes and rose through the ranks here, before taking over the helm of this historic establishment near Aubenas. Although he avows a soft spot for regional produce, he happily forages further afield for his mystery menu, which must be pre-booked, as must the chef’s table for six, served in the kitchen. The low-temperature Arctic char with sorrel embodies his flair and talent: potato patties spiked with arquebuse liqueur, hazelnut sauce vierge and green beans. Terrace shaded by plane trees.