Ring the brass lion’s-head bell to gain entry and begin a truly immersive experience lasting around four hours. The retro cocktail bar is modelled on the chef’s grandmother’s living room, while the 17-seater kitchen counter is hung with upcycled cupboards from his other’s grandmother’s kitchen. The cooking is rich and hearty, eschewing unnecessary adornment in favour of deriving maximum intensity of flavour, as with a side of hot and cold smoked Icelandic salmon dressed with caramelised sea urchin, cod head & butter emulsion, pickled pine for acidity, and grilled quinoa for added crunch.