Chef Charlène Estevão's discreet little restaurant is just a stone's throw from the covered market and Porte Notre-Dame. Having learnt the ropes under Christian Sinicropi, Lionel Lévy and Coline Faulquier, she devises a market-based set menu at lunchtime and a single multi-course set menu in the evening. Her modern cuisine, inspired by her travels, reveals Mediterranean notes and makes subtle use of spices. Her take on pissaladière deserves a special mention: a warm tartlet of caramelised onions, anchovy cream, airy onion espuma, black olive powder, pickles and onion gel. It has all the hallmarks of this Nice speciality plus a touch of playfulness.