In the steep lanes between Belleville and Ménilmontant, this well-worn bistro has kept its old counter and vintage woodwork. Spot-on, flavoursome lunchtime menu at bargain prices. In the evening, a lineup of traditional dishes to share: charcuterie, terrines and black/white pudding from a breeder of black pigs from Tarn; tempura of black pollock and tartare sauce; vol-au-vent of chicken, girolles and comté; verbena-laced plum pie… Bookings essential.