Gaya par Pierre Gagnaire has all the trappings of a gourmet temple, starting with its eye-catching bright blue façade and pretty awnings. A-listers and connoisseurs come here to wind down in the chic brasserie that is fashionably uncluttered yet eminently comfortable. The focus is unabashedly on good food, courtesy of a delicate, precise score in the zeitgeist with a seafaring slant: carpaccio of seabream and oyster-laced ice cream: shellfish and seafood platter; line-caught turbot with butter made from milk from Froment de Léon dairy cows; Gaya apple pie with poppy-flavoured chantilly cream.