"The best cookbook ever written was by Mother Nature herself," according to Alain Passard. His green philosophy is de rigueur more than ever in his cuisine, which is now entirely free of animal protein. The chef who fetes fruit and flowers never feels more at home than when in one of his three kitchen gardens in the west of France, where his twin vocations of cook and gardener meet. He heads there for inspiration and to explore culinary possibilities, coming back with recipes as accomplished as his "sushi fantaisie" or beechwood-smoked potatoes with wine sauce, for example. Enjoy as you take in the bucolic fresco that decorates the dining area.