Almost next-door to Place des Victoires, youthful Omar Dhiab, who boasts a cast-iron CV (Lasserre, l’Abeille, Loiseau Rive Gauche), has found himself a minimalist lair with an open-plan kitchen and a splendid white marble counter. His cuisine revolves around a flavoursome score, rich in creative notes, such as marinated seabream with kumquat and lovage condiment or braised matured Jersey beef, jazzed up with green pepper and smoked sardines. The light, tempting desserts sing an ode to the seasons. In the company of a youthful, enthusiastic team, the chef is equally at home in the kitchen as in the front of house.