After two years at Duende in Nîmes, Masaki Nagao is back on a pilgrimage to the capital as he breathes new life into this establishment. In the wake of Vantre and Le Clarence, the Japanese chef signs a crisp, modern, subtly inventive Gallic repertory guided by the seasons. He avows a weakness for briny shellfish, that he adds raw, cooked and in broth to structure his culinary score. You may sample a veggie composition on a carrot, radish and turnip theme, laced with a shellfish consommé, or sashimi of first-class scallops flanked by pear, smoked ricotta and Castelfranco. More concise menu at lunchtime.