The name means a willow tree bending to describe an arc. Like the willow, Shintaro Matsuo is flexible yet firmly rooted, in this case to the foundations of Naniwa (Osaka) kappo. What catches the eye is the decorative sashimi, laden with a colourful range of fish in season. Matsuo devises ingenious touches, such as seawater or egg yolk soy sauce, to modulate flavours depending on the fish. The menu lists the serving vessels used and the names of the potters who crafted them, bequeathing a Japanese cultural heritage to the future.