This restaurant, founded in 1891, is where pressed mackerel sushi was first made. The dish takes its name from the Portuguese word bateira, or small boat, as the food is pressed into a boat-shaped wooden frame. In preparation for relaunching his restaurant, the fourth-generation owner-chef, Satoru Ishikawa, apprenticed diligently at a pressed sushi shop. His craft is on full display in the temari sushi, and in the horse mackerel bozushi, a tradition he learned from his predecessor.