The Kitashinchi branch of Kashiwaya in Senriyama offers ryotei service in a counter-restaurant setting. The chef, who has devoted his career to Kashiwaya, strives above all for a sense of presence. His adroit knife skills make an eye-catching display. On days when he cooks with straw, guests can watch the flames rise through a small window. In a thoughtful touch, the blaze is isolated behind heat-resistant glass, sparing guests from the flow of smoke. Every item is prepared with a ryotei’s meticulous care.