This former 19C coaching inn sports a plush interior. It is the haunt of chef Géraldine Laubrières, who adds a consummate modern spin to patriotic French classics: loin of Atlantic cod with a shellfish emulsion, beef cheeks in gentian, wild boar in red wine… The desserts are equally dazzling, particularly the soufflé, the flavour of which changes with the seasons. Seamless service, sensible prices and a splendid wine list.