At this bustling spot in the thick of downtown Oakland, Chef/owner Anthony Salguero serves what he terms "progressive Salvadoran" cuisine, a blend of traditional flavors with a freewheeling Californian sensibility, highlighting local ingredients with creative touches. The name means “to emit smoke” in Nawat, the native language of El Salvador, a nod to the kitchen's extensive use of live wood-fire cooking, on display in their excellent pupusas, made from freshly milled corn and filled with the likes of tender lengua or loroco (the earthy, nutty buds of a Central American vine), with edges skirted by delectable bits of melty browned cheese. Extra-crunchy “campero” chicken wings, served with house hot sauce and vegetable escabeche, are a hit as well.