Chef Ron Yan makes a splash with one of the most exciting restaurants in Chinatown in recent memory. Just across from Seward Park, find a finely tuned menu that spotlights a range of familiar Chinese dishes, all prepared with style and refinement. Think tender beef shank buried under a refreshing herb salad or perfect fried cubes of tofu dusted in salt and pepper. "Carbonara" arrives studded with lap cheong, or pork sausage, and Sichuan pepper for a spicy dish with plenty of personality. A unique feature here is the wine program—it's serious business with a long, thoughtful list and Zalto glasses to boot. Desserts are tempting and change often. With so much to order, your small table fills up quickly, and the small dining room gets busy in a hurry. It’s all part of the charm.