Chef Isao Yamada's life's work has been kaiseki, and this impressive venture adds an interesting facet to the roster of high-end Japanese dining in New York. Diners here are treated to a personal expression of seasonality, with each course highlighting a distinct method of preparation. An array of sashimi bears impressive fish; the owan, or clear soup course, may brim with King crab dumplings; and the gohan, or rice course, may be a seasonal delight folded with Maine lobster, Nantucket sweet corn and maitake mushrooms from the Catskills.The chicly spare room is reserved for a handful of diners at an L-shaped counter, while the pale, earthy aesthetic is enhanced with ikebana and a windowed Japanese dry garden.