This restaurant has moved many times since opening in 1998, but regulars always track it down. The owner-chef specialises in Huaiyang classics, especially painstaking recipes from the olden days, which he tweaks and makes his own. In the colder seasons, the sautéed crab legs with crab roe are a must, as are eight-treasure duck, and mandarin fish "lion's head" meatballs. Since they entail elaborate preparation, most items need to be pre-ordered.