On a narrow little street leading down from Place de la Canourgue, Aroc has taken over from Umami, retaining the contemporary furnishings of its predecessor. Chef-patron Igor Lehmann, a qualified delicatessen and charcuterie specialist with overseas experience, puts a great deal of effort into each dish, to deliver cuisine that channels the zeitgeist – shining examples are his monkfish ballotine wrapped in Swiss chard, with almonds, almond milk mousse and beurre blanc or, for dessert, the moelleux with granola and chestnut honey, yellow courgette ice cream, and lavender custard.