This astonishing restaurant gives nothing away from the street outside: what a surprise it is, then, at the end of the stainless steel-clad tunnel, to enter this beautiful dining space with a sleek decor and clean, mineral palette that blends metal, Montpellier stone, tiles and granite. Committed to what he dubs his "cuisine d'arrivage", chef Guillaume Leclère serves a single set menu that changes regularly in line with the ultra-fresh ingredients available, (Mediterranean fish and shellfish, Ségala veal PGI etc), all sourced via short supply chains. Only the list of ingredients is revealed to diners. The chef's precise, pared-back creations are full of character and flair – think white asparagus risotto with truffled egg yolk or wild Mediterranean meagre with a cherry tomato tarte Tatin and hollandaise sauce.