Nicolas Aubry, previously Christophe Hay's executive chef, has now taken over the reins of his mentor's restaurant. The decor has not been changed and it is a pleasure to be back in this modern space with a view into the kitchen. Organised into single set menus that take their cue from the seasons and from produce sourced in the Loire region, the finely crafted dishes are expressions of his delicate cuisine, which may be subtle but has bags of personality.