Not far from Cours Julien, this old Marseille bar, spruced up but pleasingly unfussy, has retained its heart and soul: white and bottle-green walls, exposed stonework, and a terrace on a lively square. At the helm is a French-British duo who trained at Frenchie (Paris and London). They serve up bold and fiery Mediterranean dishes that look to Spain for inspiration. On the dinner menu on this occasion: skate wing terrine with pepper sauce; aubergine, smoked yoghurt, caponata, plum and sumac flower… and squid-ink rice with grilled octopus and aioli. Two sittings in the evening in summer. Booking is highly recommended.