The name of this restaurant is particularly apt (Kaleja is the Sephardic word for ‘alley’) given its location in Málaga’s Jewish quarter, just a few steps from the city’s Picasso Museum. The first thing that will strike you as you walk through the door is the subtle aroma of smoke, a key feature that sets this restaurant apart. Here, chef Dani Carnero reimagines traditional cuisine from a modern perspective, cooking over hot coals using long, slow cooking methods (what they call ‘candle cooking’) to revive the flavours of his childhood, often linked to traditional Andalucian recipes that he is saving from being resigned to the history books. The concept is brought to life through an extensive tasting menu and a limited à la carte service (you must order a minimum number of dishes). What caught our attention was a true classic, Maimones’ all i pebre (garlic and paprika) with eel and the excellent grilled sea bass with parsley and Moroccan lemon sauce.