On the top floor, reached by lift, of the Fondazione Luigi Rovati, within a magnificent historic building that also houses a highly refined art museum, chef Andrea Aprea is entirely at home: a space of great impact, entirely oriented towards the open kitchen, with the walls of the central dining room clad in bucchero (the characteristic black ceramic with which the Etruscans crafted their jars). The gastronomic offering centres on three tasting menus: Contemporaneità, the most concise, with four courses dedicated to Aprea’s latest inventions; Partenope, a six-course journey in which the Neapolitan chef (though now a long-adopted Milanese) revisits certain Campanian classics; and Signature, eight dishes that retrace some of Aprea’s defining creations. In the secret green courtyard of the palazzo at Corso Venezia 52, the Caffè Bistrot is also to be found, where from breakfast to dinner the classic flavours of Italy may be savoured.