As the name doesn’t suggest, this restaurant is far more than just a zest of taste, it is rather a winner-takes-all kind of experience. Benjamin Bouvard, who earned his stripes at Bocuse and La Pyramide, crafts a pared-back score in tune with his era and the minimalist interior. The top-notch produce occasionally unveils more exotic influences: ceviche of seabass in coconut milk and wasabi sorbet; semi-cooked slice of tuna with a fish bone and citrus fruit jus and dashi-spiked glazed carrots. The dessert of strawberry, tarragon and tonka bean is a masterpiece of balance and plays on texture. On-the-ball, warm service.