This century-old café in La Croix-Rousse serves a few dishes for sharing over drinks. But head upstairs to sample the creative, plant-forward cuisine of Jorge Lara, a Mexican chef who was previously at Têtedoie. Carefully sourced ingredients – mostly organic and local – are brought to life through flame cooking and various fermented foods, which are preserved in jars that adorn the space. The combinations are precise and stimulating, to be chosen from a deliberately short menu. Organic vegetables from Courzieu, wines from independent winemakers, including many biodynamic picks – proof, if proof were needed, that sustainable options taste just as good.