This authentic neighbourhood institution, decked in an understated façade, has been going strong for over 30 years in a relatively little-known part of Croix Rousse. A warm vibe with a retro feel sets the scene courtesy of a Formica bar, vintage wallpaper and a quirky collection of old clocks and other paraphernalia. Chef Junzo Matsuno deftly crafts polished traditional Gallic fare, to which he may add the odd low-key Japanese twist, together with a strong focus on veggies (which he grows himself). The lunch menu is a steal.