Hôtel des Roches has been entirely rebuilt with local Bormes stone, giving it a new lease of life. Perched on the rocks just above the sea, it boasts spectacular views from Cap Nègre to the Îles du Levant. In the kitchen, chef Antoine Gras (La Table de l'Ours, Val-d'Isère) takes up residency for the summer, returning to the Mediterranean roots of his early career. His cuisine is pared back (a premium ingredient, a sauce and a side) and rooted in local tradition: fish from a Le Lavandou fisherman; herbs and vegetables from his kitchen garden. Tamaris oysters are enveloped in seaweed and spinach, steamed, and finished with a caviar beurre blanc. Line-caught bass is served perfectly pearlescent on a pistou-infused vegetable ragout. For dessert: red berries, crispy Melba brioche, whipped vanilla cream and a bright tarragon coulis.