Derived from the Hebrew word for "bitter", but also evoking the verb "to love" and the name Marie – a nod to Louis Robergeau and Léa Viano's grandmothers – the name resonates like a declaration. In their intimate bistro in the old Cougnes neighbourhood, the duo welcome their guests as they would friends, as they alternate between roles in the kitchen and front of house. Their network of local producers is a boon: fish and shellfish from nearby fish markets, duck from Vendée, dairy products from Surgères. Set menus – simpler at lunchtime, more ambitious in the evening – showcase the best of each season, and at unbeatable value.