The novel concepts and free-spirited fun here could aptly be referred to as ‘Noguchi-style kappo’. Osaka nikusui (beef soup) is a speciality, prepared with kudzu sauce and seasoned with sansho to give it a Kyoto feel. After the standard five items, you can add others of your choice. Some, like dry-cured duck ham, curry and spring rolls, feature a Western or Chinese element as a key ‘secret ingredient’. This is a restaurant that connects (tsunagu) Kyoto cuisine’s past to its future.