Makoto Fujiwara colours within the lines of Japanese fare while moving with the changing times. Soup dishes and sashimi, for example, are an inherited tradition, but other items borrow a page or two from encounters with French cuisine. Spiny lobster is glazed with egg-yolk sauce; beef sukiyaki is enhanced with black truffles. Like Gion-minami, Kyoto’s geiko quarter, the old is interlaced with the new. Wine pairings denote a modern sensibility.