This single-character surname, Kan, meaning ‘interval’, refers to the chef as intermediary between cuisine and guest. The menu begins with a fruit salad with mashed tofu dressing, to whet the appetite with the tartness of the fruit. Wagyu red meat is served chargrilled or as deep-fried crumbed fillet; potato salad is dressed with fried fat and called ‘Kanfu’ (‘Kan-style’). Technique and playfulness are on full display here.