The beams of a merchant townhouse frame a soaring atrium with table seating. As conversation sparkles around the tables, the chef focuses squarely on his cooking, showing the respect for ingredients he learned as an apprentice. The chef visits farmers in Takagamine and Kamigamo, feeling the seasons in his bones as he carefully selects his veggies. Seafood is char-grilled and garnished with vegetables. Presentation is simple, yet the chef’s unique stamp on the fare is unmistakable.