White is the keynote colour of the antiques-accented interior. The restaurant is decorated with sundries collected at flea markets, while a pendant light wreathes the establishment in its warm glow. The chef prepares traditional cuisine, arrangements stripped to the essentials so the flavours of the ingredients themselves shine clearly. Enamoured of Bincho charcoal, the chef even bakes his bread with it. The name of the restaurant means ‘white asparagus’—no need to ask what their spring speciality is…