The journey to Kvitnes takes in dramatic Arctic landscapes, from glassy fjords to rugged mountains – and that’s all before you arrive at this stunning rural spot. Here, in a collection of cosy old farm buildings (the main house once belonged to the chef’s great-great-great-grandfather), Halvar Ellingsen takes home-grown and foraged produce, animals reared on site and locally landed seafood, and creates something very special. In a nod to the past, the honest, flavoursome dishes might be cooked in the outdoor stone bread oven or hot smoked over logs. Stay the night in one of the cabins and keep your eye out for both whales and the aurora.