For over 10 years, the owner couple has been running this snug, inviting restaurant with a muted, monochromatic interior that doesn't feel a bit dated. Changing with the seasons, the tasting menu is inspired by Taiwanese, Hakka and Indigenous recipes and demonstrates a flair for local Chinese herbs and spices. Most dishes are cooked over charcoal, and the reduced sauces are free of starch. Whichever main-course meat diners choose, the chef presents it tableside in a wooden smoking box, creating a well-rounded sensory experience.