This edifice on the banks of the Yonne is truly superlative! Founded by Marie Lorain in 1945, the establishment rose to fame in the hands of her son, Michel, and then later, when her modest, conscientious grandson, Jean-Michel, took over. The latter has entrusted his nephew, Alexandre Bondoux, with the task of composing the menu. Regulars can rest assured that the original, iconic dishes remain (lobster blanquette; calf sweetbread with ginger), now flanked by flashes of inspiration (cuttlefish tagliatelle with konjac in smoked-milk carbonara style; Wagyu beef grilled on the barbecue, Savora mustard condiment and pastrami jus). A symphony of flavours, high-flying craftsmanship and an exquisite repertory, underscored by slick attentive service.