Warm light, limewash walls, a wooden counter and an open kitchen make for a cosy space that encourages interaction with the two Taiwanese chefs, who met in Australia. Firoo specialises in wood-fire cooking, using different wood for different ingredients – Formosan koa, longan or lychee. The rotating menu leans towards seafood from the island's northeastern coast, which exudes smoky depth, served with fermented sauces and rare spices such as strawberry gum.