A seasonal and sustainable ethos runs throughout this cosy, passionately run restaurant – neatly demonstrated by its shelves filled with jars of fermenting foodstuffs. The all-Scandinavian ingredients – like glistening Norwegian cod – are at the heart of the cooking, with a real purity to the best of the dishes. Vegetables get a chance to shine too, and there’s a vegan menu available if you want to experience this to the full. Dishes are brought to the table by the chefs, and the natural wine flights are well-chosen.