The owner-chef opened this tiny gem in 2011, naming it after his unique hairstyle. The locals come in droves for his authentic Hangzhou-style noodles – browse the chalkboard for the 30-plus varieties on offer. All the noodles are cooked on the spot and tossed in sauces or served in soup. Springy noodles tossed in a glaze with wok-fried river shrimps and eel are loaded with lardy richness, deep umami and soy sauce flavour.