In a small town just a few kilometres from the capital, two passionate young chefs serve dishes inspired by the region with a contemporary twist, such as cave mushrooms, seaweed and pecorino, or charcoal-grilled tripe with mint and sour cherry balsamic vinegar. The tour of the tuff cellars, where the chef experiments with traditional preservation methods and unique flavourings, is well worth a visit. Furthermore, each year, the premises are ‘lent’ to a modern art gallery owner for exhibitions.