Tucked away down a quiet city centre alley, this long-standing and much-respected restaurant has long enjoyed a loyal local following. The cooking modernises classically based dishes and the sauces are particularly impressive, adding depth and complexity to uplift the central ingredients; roast saddle of lamb with an expertly made provençal-style rabbit jus is a prime example. The extensive, lovingly curated wine list has options for a range of budgets and the sommelier's recommendations are well worth taking.