Part of the La Torre Box Art hotel, Koma occupies a glass-fronted pavilion with access via the garden. It is skilfully run by chef Álex Marugán, a particularly talented cook (he also holds a Bib Gourmand in Madrid, at Tres por Cuatro). Here the cuisine strives to be more essential, direct and conscious, giving greater prominence to the grill without closing the door on some good stews and stocks. The idea is that, with honesty at the core, fire becomes the language spoken here, with a contemporary stamp and the possibility of crossing borders to encounter far-away flavours.