Ever affable and welcoming, Chef Stephen Gillanders is right at home in this intimate Wicker Park space. A single chef’s counter stretches the length of the dark, polished dining room, offering guests a front-row seat to the kitchen. The tasting menu draws inspiration from a range of global traditions while remaining rooted in quality seasonal ingredients. Seafood is a particular strength, with thoughtfully composed dishes such as a crystal prawn noodle course delicately dressed with lemon oil and an elegant trio featuring kampachi hand roll, oyster and clam ceviche. Beverage pairings, from cocktails to wine, are equally well considered, making this an engaging and polished tasting-menu experience.